Category Archives: Workshop or Garage

12-18v Portable Water Pump

Weekend project #34223.

Today im going to build a portable transfer pump i think would come in handy, mainly for camping but anything really.  Built to the confines of a small weatherproof/impact resistant pelican case and with options for connecting to a 12v power source or using a 18v cordless power tool battery.

2017-06-25 09.27.04_resultHere we have the pump i purchased of ebay. A Seaflow 18 LPM, 12v pump with an internal pressure sensor cut off switch, and the pelican case i had lying around the workshop.

2017-06-25 09.37.45_resultNext was to find some suitable BSP fittings so i can easily connect typical garden hoses/attachments to the pump.

2017-06-25 10.16.05_resultSo we have the inlet up the top, inline gauze filter, through the pump, ball valve, which will also work as an on/off switch (because of the pressure switch) and back out again. The two stainless bushes are there so i can weld a bracket to them and screw to the box, eliminating any stresses from pulling on the hose etc and breaking the pump.

2017-06-27 17.14.33_resultNext was to sort out the power from the makita cordless drill battery. I got this adaptor thing from makita which will work perfectly for connecting the battery. Just need to hack it a bit.

2017-06-27 17.26.42_resultInside it has a voltage regulator and 2 x 5v USB outlets. Im going to bypass that circuit board and connect directly to the battery terminals.

2017-06-27 18.36.53_resultHere it is done, 18v power coming out of the unit and a few little mods and its secured to the lid.

2017-06-27 18.36.58_result

2017-07-21 17.05.26_resultHere we have the pump mounted, support things fitted  on an angle so the hoses dont have to kink, the 18v supply goes into a step down converter from 18 to 12v, it then links up to a 12v anderson plug for an external 12v supply, through a 10a blade fuse and to the pump. Job done!

2017-07-24 08.29.55_resultInside the compact case fits 2 x 6m hoses, a few garden tap attachments and a spray nozzle.  All packed into a small indestructible box i can just chuck in the back of the ute.

the end,

 

 

Workshop Crane Jib

This ones been on my mind for some time now.  Wanting some sort of overhead workshop crane that’s cheap to build,  doesn’t take up any floor space and no need for expensive bulky structural steel. The idea of being able to dismount it and relocate it or even bolt it to a steel column anywhere has had me thinking for ages on its design.

After searching the web for ideas, I have come up with my own design, which I think will be suffice for what I want it to do.  I am by no means a structural engineer or has this been certified by one but its not for commercial use and only for private use in my workshop. I’m building it to what I feel is a safe construction method with my 20+ years of knowledge in metal fabrication.

2016-03-12 08.01.59_resultLike all my projects, they start off with a few design sketches, brainstorming a way to keep it cheap lightweight yet strong enough for a couple of hundred kilos.
For the pivoting action i have gone with a couple of Toyota Landcruiser trailer stub axles machined down to a round surface to work with. As you could imagine, this large tapered bearing design can take tonnes of weight and is a friction free, easy way to get this thing swinging with minimal effort.

2016-03-12 08.31.50_resultHere’s the wall mounted section about to be welded. Using 75x50x8 angle I think will be a great way to fix it to any surface now or in the future. Using my jigging table  See the build here!  makes it a cinch to clamp it down flat for minimal distortion and to hold things square while i weld it.

2016-03-12 08.35.23_resultBefore I start welding, pre-heating the steel is an essential process for good penetration and a solid weld that wont break. I let that warm up till i could fry an egg off it.

2016-03-12 08.40.32_result2016-03-12 08.45.11_resultAfter welding.

2016-03-12 10.00.42_resultHere’s the first part of the jib. Using only the steel I had at the workshop,  not wanting to spend any money, I ended up making it from 40x40x4 SHS. The length and design was just the make it up as  go approach not spending any time drawing on CAD or anything.

2016-03-12 10.14.56_resultThe jib length was made to 3.5m long by 850 high. With use of diagonal bracing, when fully welded will be impossible to bend.

Image14For the dolly track I will be using some heavy duty Uni-Strut. Its been ordered and in transit, so in the interim, I’m going to make the dolly. Made from 10mm steel plate, I’m using some skateboard bearings I had lying around, again to save costs. They fit perfectly into the channel of the unistrut and using 4 each side, will distribute the weight nicely.

Image12Image11There she is. I used 8mm stainless round bar as the shafts and press fit them into the plate. To hold the bearings on I packed them to suit the width of the unistrut then tacked them on with the TIG welder.

Image09Next was the third bearing assembly. This ones at the end of the jib and will pivot the second arm, making it an ‘articulated jib’  Note when jigging this up, its important to get all the parameters square and true to each other so when its in operation it doesn’t lean or swing by itself which could cause stress or twisting in the frame.

Image05The top bearing hub will be welded to the jib, extra strength added with the use of 2 8mm gussets.

Image06Now as the wall plate has the tapered bearing spindles facing the opposite way to each other, it would be stupid of me to weld this one on too.  So my design includes a bolt-on bottom bearing.

Image04Here i have tacked the bottom one on so I could drill the holes through the SHS without anything moving. The whole thing will be dismantled and bearings removed before I weld it up.

Image01There it is all finished and ready to paint. Here you can see, well sort of, the unistrut welded to the bottom and an extra 10mm plate for more support for the end and also a stop for the dolly inside the track.

2016-04-02 18.40.56_03_04_2016After a long day, and working into the night, the frame is finally painted. Time to go home. Cant wait to get it up tomorrow!

2016-04-03 09.21.28_03_04_2016Loving being at work on a Sunday. Although its not really working when you’re enjoying yourself building things from scratch. Installing the whole thing alone took a while. Not an easy task but persistence prevailed and up she went without a hitch.

2016-04-03 09.20.05_03_04_2016Using the forklift to hold the jib an the right height, I bolted the wall bracket on, packed the bearings and slid it on. Couldn’t of gone better to be honest. Once the jib was attached at the top it was a matter of inserting the bottom coupling and sliding the bolts through.

2016-04-03 09.34.17_03_04_2016Before the bottom coupling went on, I had to quickly slide the dolly on and into the track as the other end is welded shut. If you look closely,  there is a stopper incorporated into the bottom bracket locking it in but still having the option to take it out for servicing etc is a plus.

2016-04-03 10.05.04_03_04_2016A work of art.

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2016-04-03 10.04.12_03_04_2016As designed, the jib folds nicely against the wall out of the way.

2016-04-03 09.42.13_03_04_2016Next job will be to move that stationary hoist in background and attach it to the dolly.

2016-04-07 15.37.20_resultSo, the second stage of the build begins. The crane. Here lies a bog standard 240v crane I purchased off ebay. Rated to 500kg, it’ll do for me for now and to be honest, I cant really see the need to lift anything heavier than that.  As you can see, H have attached my own hook onto the piss weak little hook. haha. This is to make it look more man like and be able to attach slings without any fuss.

2016-04-07 15.44.19_resultNext was to use the standard mounts (the silver top hat shaped ones) and make up a dummy eyelet, the reason for this was to find the centre-point/balancing point before I make the real attachment.

2016-04-07 16.48.44_resultHere’s the real attachment about to be welded. Note the plate goes right through the SHS for maximum strength, knowing the flatbar eyelet will never tear off the SHS when under load.

2016-04-07 17.02.44_resultA quick paint and a stitch weld onto the standard brackets ad she’s all done.

2016-04-07 17.07.14_resultWell that was a bloody waste of time. No matter where i sit the eyelet in relation to the crane, its never balancing correctly. Not happy.

2016-04-30 11.20.25_resultJake’s over it too. Time to go home…

2016-04-30 11.15.14_resultAfter a few days off the project. Im back again, round two. A more sturdy attachment using the same principle as the dolly with the bearings in the track.

2016-04-30 12.22.45_resultLooking more promising.

2016-04-30 08.12.56_resultTime to hack the crane. Being so far in the air nobody wants a dangling controller that has a 1m long controller. How the hell am i supposed to reach that? Let alone use the crane, steady the work piece and juggle holding the controller at the same time!. So, I’ve purchased a 12v 2 channel wireless relay.  Lets get busy!

2016-04-30 10.28.51_resultWell its not looking promising. Unfortunately the switch gear is all 240v. Its also using this huge capacitor which i assume is to give full voltage to the contacts at any given point. Back to the drawing board.

2016-06-05 10.11.10_resultOk so 3 weeks have passed. I have been waiting for this little device to arrive in the mail. Its a 240v 2 channel wireless relay. Something you would find in a garage door opener for example. Here’s me doing a bench test but so far with not much luck. I have bypassed the switch to the relay but that f’ing capacitor has me stuffed. Without wiring it in the circuit nothing happens and with it, when i turn the power on its just reeling the spool in with no control of the switching.  I’m going home…

2016-06-14 16.32.37_resultAnother few weeks have passed, and I’m at my wits end with that bloody crane piece of shit. Time to start fresh.  Here i have purchased a 12v ATV winch. With wireless controller!. So much easier!. Its rated to 3000lb (around 1360Kg) which is way more than i need and to be honest, I doubt this could handle a tonne.

2016-06-14 17.02.31_resultAfter about 20 mins shes already mounted to my dolly, control box attached and ready to hang. The anticipation is killing me. Having that crane jib above my head each day at work and not being able to use it is doing my head in.

2016-06-30 15.40.42_resultWell its finally on! And it works a treat. Having it only connected to 4WD battery for the time being, if you see in the background, i have already made provisions for a 240v to 12v transformer sometime soon but for now its at least working!

2016-07-02 10.32.38_result2016-07-01 16.41.42_result

Now to start on the articulated jib!

Stay tuned for more progress soon!

 

 

 

 

 

 

DIY 4WD Box Trailer

 

After building my slide on camper,  (seen here) Slide on camper I have decided to build tough little box trailer to complement it.

This way I have the option to either put the camper on my ute as previously or tow it behind on the new trailer. It will also enable people to use the camper if they don’t own a utility or a potential buyer who wants the whole package!

The reason to build a trailer over buying one are a plenty, this way I get exactly what I want and save a few dollars in the process. Also my dad has been wanting a new trailer for decades and thought it would be nice if I built one we could both use. And to no cost to him.

Its going to be quite small, have heavy duty 1600kg 4WD suspension, 33″ 4WD tyres (Cooper ST MAX’s), made from galvanized steel, have an internal box storage size to perfectly fit 4 x 900 x 500 x 400 Pelican space cases, and the top made to the same size as the camper so when its paired it will work and look awesome.

This is my story,

IMG_8611Like all ideas of mine, they begin their fruition on a piece of paper. Starting with rough sketches of what comes pouring out of my mind the design slowly takes shape.

IMG_8613Putting dimensions on sketches gives me parameters to work with, like a limit to what I can do within the space and also the goal or reason for build.  In this case, the tray top needs to match the camper so 2050 x 1850  is the ideal size.

IMG_8612I would like the inner box compartment to fit my pelican space cases which measure 900 x 550 x 400 each so an internal size under the camper of 1800L x 1100W x 400H min.

IMG_8641Next is to get a bit more serious. Without going into too much detail using Autocad and drafting up proper drawings, this one has all i need to do the job. From this drawing i have also worked out the wheelbase and most importantly the axle length which i can now order to get made to size.

IMG_8642Here we have the side elevation above and below an isometric view of the parts for the frame/chassis with part numbers. From this drawing I can start cutting the lengths of tube up.

IMG_8603Next step was to get cracking! Here we have the box section chassis made from 40 x 40 x 2.5 Duragal SHS tacked together. All cut from that crappy drawing above. No CAD necessary.

IMG_8807There’s the frame fully welded and the tailgate made and installed. Its upside down by the way,

IMG_8808My Christmas has come early!  Got a delivery today. The hardware!

IMG_8810Basically everything i need to make a trailer. Minus the wiring , lights wheels etc.

IMG_8812A few late hours later I have welded the hangers and installed the shackles, fitted the springs and are now fitting the custom made axle.

IMG_8813Axle on, electric brake hub on.

IMG_8814Getting excited!  (i am only dry fitting the bearings tonight as I need to borrow a bearing grease packer off a friend tomorrow

IMG_8834Prepared earlier, was a new set of Cooper ST-Maxx.’s 33″ on 17″ steel rims.

IMG_8819Wheel on, mudguard just sitting in there at this stage. Its looking pretty good, so far the dimensions are matching the sketch. Almost ready to make the draw bar and flip it over.

IMG_8829Draw bar on. Making it quite long as its easier to reverse, able to jack-knife for turning around on tight 4WD tracks and also my to point under my ute is a fair way under the tray.

IMG_8835On its wheels. Tail gate done!.

IMG_8837There it is, the rolling chassis.

IMG_8836Looking at how the height came together i think its a bit high, from here I will take the axle out again and put it on top of the leaf springs which will lower it about 130mm.

IMG_8955There thats better. see how the wheel is more inside the mudguard now. Also checking to make sure the pelican cases fit.

IMG_9137Mudguards painted, now to fit the gal sheet metal.

IMG_9138Im going to use a 2mm gal sheet for the bottom and 1.5mm for the sides to reduce the weight a bit.

IMG_9149Sheet metal done.  It has been stitch welded on so there is no rivets or screws then every seam and join i have used a flexible sickaflex 11FC to keep the edges from collecting dirt and water and rusting out. Its will be painted over later on.


 

So,  I have missed taking a few photos of wiring the lights and finishing painting etc but she’s finished now.

As you can see in the pics below, its great all rounder, versatile solid trailer great for any purpose. Unbreakable and rustproof. With electric brakes and heavy duty 4wd suspension its a pleasure to tow and forget its even there sometimes.

IMG_9204

 

Next up is to mount the slide on camper on top and see how she goes.


Here’s a few photos of my slide on camper mounted on the trailer. These two pair up perfectly and giving me ultimate versatility to either tow it and leave the ute tray empty, put the camper on my ute for a bit more remote travelling or just using the box trailer as a good all-rounder and leave the camper on its legs.

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2015-09-30 07.32.57_result

2015-11-08 13.22.03_result

2015-10-07 12.14.25_result

2015-11-08 13.36.03_result

 

Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more interesting projects to come!.

Next up:  Turning that trailer into the ultimate off road camper!!

If you want to see the slide on camper build.  See it here!

Slide on Camper

 

 

Hi!

I have a passion for camping and love camping projects.  I have decided to build a slide on camper for my 4wd ute.

Made all from aluminium to keep it light, when it’s completed it’s going to have a pop up double bed  up top, canvas wrap around side awning, full kitchen with gas stove, gas hot water with water storage, triple gel batteries with solar to name a few.  I have until Anzac Day 2015 to finish it so here we go!

I hope you enjoy the read and don’t forget to subscribe by pressing the follow button at the bottom right of this page!


 

Untitledx

 

Untitled

Slide on Camper 150714Here is my design drawings I drew on Google Sketchup. Nothing is actually built from these drawings it more of a concept to see what fits where and if its going to work.

From here i  will have to draw it again in AutoCAD with accurate dimensions and cross-sections for each piece i need to make. More on that later.

 

Slide on Camper Frame only 180714This is the skeletal frame. The chassis to what defines the shape and everything is going to be bolted to. Here goes….


 

Skeletal FrameFabricating the skeletal frame to the dimensions in the pic above.


 

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IMG_4979Folding some of the sheet metal external panels.


 

photo 2

 

photo 3Attaching the external sheet metal panels

IMG_5072Not a very good pic but here I am installing the floor panel.

photo 7Installing the new MSA Drop fridge slide. Had to make a 50mm rising spacer so it can open over the lip of the door way.

photo 8Expensive piece of gear but well worth it. Drops the fridge down about 350mm so its easy to access.

photo 9Another ute load of folded pieces including the stairs!

photo 11Installing the stairs and stair stringers before the back wall panel goes on.

photo 12Just a progress shot.

photo 13Working out where and how to mount the gas hot water heater.

photo 14Hot water heater mounted, stairs and back wall completed.

photo 15Front wall  and skin also done.

photo 20A box was fabricated and welded next to the water heater. This will house the shower hose accessible from the outside.

photo 16Machining the receivers for the removable side-winder jacks.  More on that later on.


 

photo 21Now to build the stainless steel water tank. I have designed this to be mid-mounted and also act as a divider from the kitchen to the storage area, also keeping the weight over the axle. It will be 155 L.


 

photo 24Water tank temporarily in,  just laying things out trying to work out the design of the kitchen.

fghDevider wall goes in. This is a shot from the storage (drivers) side. When completed this will store the beer esky, camping chairs, clothes compartment and a tool box for 4wd recovery gear and what ever else.


 

tyhStainless water tank is finished. Before it goes in, we do a 40PSI compressed air test, leave it for 2 days and see if the gauge moves. After it passes, its then acid washed and polished.

hjmDigital water level sender is mounted before install. A lot easier to do it now.

gfjhAnd the fun begins! $350 worth of brass plumbing fittings. All plumbing in this build will be done with BSP threaded fittings and Auspex system to guarantee no leaks or problems later.

IMG_6543Sorry for the shit night shot but here’s a bit of the plumbing done. Water heater on the left, up top is a 3way valve to direct the hot water to either the external shower compartment (right box) or the kitchen sink/tap. More on that later.


 

IMG_6458Next is an idea I’ve had for some time, which is a filtered air intake box to supply filtered dust free air into the camper.

This serves multiple reasons. First is while driving, the fans will force fresh air into the camper so it positively pressurizes the cabin making it impossible for dust to enter through any door seals.

Second is the hot water heater. Like any household, they are meant to be mounted outside due to the carbon monoxide produced from the gas burner. The water heater i am using has an exhaust flu on top of the unit. I am going to duct this vent to the dirty air side of the filter unit using a one-way valve so when the unit is running the flap opens exhausting the carbon monoxide to the outside of the camper bypassing the filter. But when the heater is not in use, the flap shuts again keeping the dust out.

IMG_6490So here is my brainchild after birth. Not much to look at yet but its beginning to take shape.  The bigger box will house the fans, the hole you can see is for the heater exhaust, the big square hole is for the filter and the other box goes over the filter. Hope this makes sense. The white thing is a water excess drain should the fans suck in rain water.

IMG_6494Here it is installed. I have also added a viewing window into the side, so i can see if the filter is getting dirty or full of dust/rain etc.

IMG_6492View from the outside. Will probably put a louvred vent over that in case come kids fingers get inquisitive.


 

IMG_6503Next are the batteries. I have here 3 x 100ah deep cycle heavy duty gel batteries. They are made for electric wheelchairs so one could assume they can take a beating.

IMG_6522Here are the batteries all wired up and bolted down. Better to do this now as next the kitchen is going in and will be not as easily accessible.


 

IMG_6520Next I have cut a hole in the back for the gas bottle storage. Its under the stairs out of the way but must be separated from the cabin in a ventilated area.

IMG_6523After the compartment was made and welded in. Just needs a vented door now. Note all the welds are sanded off. When the campers finished I’m going to paint it.

IMG_6596Now the gas bottle compartment is in I have fitted the water pump on top.

IMG_6597Plumbing for the hot water heater is complete. Just need to connect the exhaust to the top to the filter box and its ready to rock. Note all this plumbing will be covered by the kitchen sink draw slide.


 

UntitledHere’s a screenshot of me designing the pop top on AutoCAD. I’m pretty much starting from scratch with no prior knowledge on how to make it, I’m just going to have a crack and hope for the best.  I have tried a few different designs and the only way I can come up with to have the lid lift 1800mm high to stand upstairs is this way.

UntitledsHere is  a newer screenshot of the parts in action. It seems to be working on screen so I guess its time to start fabricating!


 

IMG_6598Here is a shot of me designing the adjustable sidewinder jacks which will lift the camper off my ute tray. This will enable me to level the camper, set it to the desired height and also free up my ute for 4wding, hunting , collecting firewood and more beer. Because my ute tray is so high (1200 off ground) I am having to go to great lengths to get the jacks to function at this height. More on that later. Here you can see the stainless steel machined shaft I have welded to the top of the jack which will insert into the opposing machined receiver welded to the camper.


 

Another problem I have came across is the hot water heater’s ignition source. Its normally powdered by two ‘D’ size batteries which are inserted under unit but where I have mounted the unit I won’t be able to access the batteries, not to mention the hassle should the batteries go flat out in the bush somewhere.  So I came up with this:

IMG_6631

My latest invention to overcome the battery problem. The concept is to make two replica batteries, same dimensions out of nylon which will have button head screws for terminals which will be wired through a 12 to 3v DC regulator and then I can connect the power to the campers battery system. Sounds good in theory, time to give it a crack!

IMG_6632A short time later! done! Now to wire them up.

IMG_6633Here is the finished product! Worked out exactly how I wanted. The top end is tapped M6 then the screw inserted, then the electrical terminal is connected to the base of the screw and fixed with a nut. There is a larger hole in the bottom for the wire and machined out to the size of the insulation i will be adding later. Very happy!


 

Now its time to start thinking about the electrical system. There are a few circuits to run and I want to know how its going to work, and where the wires are going to go before i even start. I have found it much neater and professional by mapping out what goes where before I hit the tools.

IMG_6623The basic mud map.

IMG_6624The start of the electrical cabinet. The size of this box was determined on how many components are going inside and leaving room for extras.


IMG_6711Here’s me starting the wiring. Bit of a mess at the moment but I’m in the zone!

IMG_6702Here is a little alloy box I fabbed up to house the water level sender unit, and also the switches for the kitchen.

IMG_6714IMG_6715

Here it is installed. (below the fire extinguisher) Happy as a pig in shit.


 

 

 

IMG_6723Next is  to design a dash for all the electrical goodies. Drawn on AutoCAD i will now send this file to my friends who have a CNC turret punch.

FullSizeRenderThere she is. Easy as that.

FullSizeRenderNow for a carbon fibre wrap to finish it off.

IMG_6813Here is the dash semi-installed. This dash will display the battery management and power consumption and charge state. Behind the dash will be the fuse box and solar regulator unit. I have also installed an hour meter to know how long the camper has been used for, mostly for resale use i guess. For example I might own it for 2 years but only use it several times.

IMG_6811More wiring pics. I love doing this stuff. Very tedius trying to do it neat but I enjoy it.

IMG_6807Here are the main switches located at the batteries under the stairs. Here you can see the switch on the left which can isolate the power from the solar panels. the right switch isolates the batteries from basically everything for when the camper is not in use, The anderson plug is for external charging from a car charger for example via the dash which displays the rate of charge etc.


 

 

 

FullSizeRender (1)Making the pop-top lid.

FullSizeRenderAll the ribs are riveted using things called huck bolts. Basically like an aircraft design, lightweight ribs but stiff.

FullSizeRender (2)Getting there. All these pockets will then be packed with 40mm insulation then sheeted on the inside.

FullSizeRender (4)Well it works!

FullSizeRender (3)Smiles all around. very happy.

 


 

Here’s a few photos of where i’m at now (march 2015)

FullSizeRenderFullSizeRender (3)FullSizeRender (2)FullSizeRender (4)

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IMG_7286A shot of some of the plumbing we have done. Before it all gets hidden away by the kitchen draw.

IMG_7288A work of art really.

FullSizeRender (3)Back to working on the kitchen. Stove draw in with draw front.

IMG_7296Massive draw, This will be for food storage and bits and pieces

IMG_7297

 

FullSizeRender

FullSizeRender (4)Testing the new stove.

IMG_7295Kitchen bench in. The bench top i have decided to use is a piece of 20mm solid nylon like a chopping board. Wont stain or rot and can use it to cut and prepare food like you would anywhere else.

That’s the kitchen basically finished.

 


IMG_7408IMG_7409Thought id better try it on my truck. First time on, fits like a glove. Its still sitting on wooden sluts in this pic but the suspension is handling it well.

IMG_7453Trying out my new Supapeg awning. Great piece of gear. Cant wait to use it properly.

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IMG_7503Back on to working on the roof.  Quite a big task building this thing as it needs lots of rib support, all riveted together using huck bolts.

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IMG_7511Next was to install the polystyrene insulation. I am using 40mm thick panels glued down.

IMG_7513All gaps filled!

IMG_7514Once the insulating is done, we have glued 1.5mm alloy sheet over that finishing the roof.

IMG_7525Next was to insert the sail track to the freshly sewn custom canvas and attach it to the roof. ( a lot easier doing it up-side down)

IMG_7533Here we are attaching the roof back onto the camper! Even got the boy in on a Saturday!

IMG_7540And here we are! done. The bottom sail track is attached using M5 countersunk bolts in-case it ever has to be removed.

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IMG_7536So happy right now. Looks bloody awesome. Plenty of head room and ventilation as there are windows on all sides. Will be so good in summer!


IMG_7543Here I am working out how to fit the solar panels. A great way to spend my Sundays.

IMG_7545Attaching the solar panel brackets


 

IMG_7562So here we go! Time to put it on!

IMG_7563The dog looks as happy as me.

IMG_7567For the trip i will be using the sidewinder jacks to take the weight off the suspension when I’m parked up. Also to get it nice and level when cooking the eggs in the pan. haha.

IMG_7569As doors are on and working great. just some final adjustments and we’re off!

IMG_7573Electrical management box all done. Solar working a treat.

IMG_7579Beer fridge to the right in front of the storage box i made for storage of tools and recovery gear. To the left i have mounted these storage boxes for clothes and what not.


Now for the big trip. Heading up to Forster for 4-5 days then over the Barrington Tops heading West. No real plans just more of an NSW exploration with no deadlines or destination, just see where we end up and test out the rig.

 

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IMG_7610Made it to Forster, time to unwind and set up the awning!.

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IMG_7613Pretty bloody happy to say the least. Only downside so far is my truck ute tray is so high making it difficult to use the kitchen. I packed a milk crate to stand on so we have adapted.

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IMG_7595Couldn’t be happier with upstairs. So much room, very airy and spacious. Heaps of head room and a nice bed-side passage to walk down or store clothes or whatever.


Next i have just added a few photos of our trip and some of the beautiful places we visited.

As soon as we left Forster we made it our mission to stay off the tar and experience the road less traveled.

Its been a fun journey keeping me out of trouble and my weekends busy. Id hate to add up the hours I’ve spent over the last 9 months it taken me to build. I will be adding up the expenses later on but for now its time to put this project to rest and hang up the boots for a while.

I will continue with it later on and finish the legs and give it a paint job but i need a break and to concentrate on work.

Thanks for reading and please subscribe and leave a comment below!

Click on the photos for a better look.!

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Work bench and Jigging table

So, I’ve decided to build a new work bench. The most over-engineered,  biggest, strongest most man like table ever built.

My last bench has been good to me but its 10 years old now and feeling a bit used, abused and outdated. I have been looking around surfing the web and there is some great gear out there but the bench I want is over $15,000 to buy,  which I cannot justify.

So, this is why I’m going to have a crack and build my own.

IMG_5361To start off, I have purchased and just received a new steel plate for the bench top. Its 3m long by 1.5m wide and 19mm thick. Weighing in just over 600kg.

IMG_5463Here we are marking out the layout for the 1,000,000 holes we are about to drill.

IMG_5464We have marked a 50 x 50mm grid measured absolutely square and are drilling a 100 x 100 pattern with every centre of the 4 holes drilled also.

IMG_5465Setting up to drill.

IMG_5513She’s looking good but taking a long time. At least 5 minutes per hole.

To be continued….


 

Hi again!.  Fast track almost a year forward.  sorry for the lack of posts, but work, life and other projects got in the way. Since the purchase of the new steel bench top I have just put it on the old bench with a few gluts and have been using it like that ever since.

Throughout that time i have still been drilling holes. Slowly but surely it will get done but so far managing as it is.

2016-05-12 15.41.55_resultHere it is at present, almost fully drilled. Saying that its taken longer to get the mill scale off the steel than drilling the holes.

2016-04-28 14.31.16_resultIn the mean time, i have been building a few tool holder plates with matching hole pattern. Here you can see my three vices. The ability to mount them anywhere on the table excites me with endless possibilities and positions to mount them anywhere on the table.

2016-05-06 11.58.52_resultAnother quick little side project, inspired from the vises is this adjustable stand.  I’ve actually made 3 of them. This will be used for when building long or odd shape projects on the table and with these stands i can support the job and use the clamps, or bolt down a vise, whatever. love the possibilities..

2016-05-19 11.51.47_resultAnother devise made to hold my barrel grinder. Previously i would of had to clamp it in the vise.

2016-06-30 12.12.29_resultAlright, enough stuffing around. Its been too long. Time to make the sturdy table base. Ironically I’m using the table to make the table on the old table. The frame im using 100 x 100 x 6 Steel SHS this thing is going to weigh a tonne. Ive left the ends of the frame open on purpose. In the near future ive got a few ideas in my head for a telescopic section of some sort. Dunno yet..

2016-06-30 13.13.41_resultAlmost finished and ready to flip onto its wheels.

2016-06-30 13.40.11_resultThe big day has come, to flip the table base over and lift the top off the old table.

2016-07-01 16.45.05_resultOne last pic of my old table. She’s been good to me, around 12 years of service. Sold it to a mate.

 

 

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